Cuttlefishlore

Just another girl's travels.

strange fruit file: a seemingly average tuesday. March 31, 2010

Filed under: Uncategorized — daninolan @ 10:10 pm
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Is it weirder that we had hot dog soup for school lunch yesterday, or that I liked it?

Weirder still: On my walk home from school yesterday, I passed the Gottbawi IPark apartment block. This is not weird; I do this every day. But this day, an attractive Korean boy was standing just behind the fence at the corner of the compound. He was only about eight or so, and he was wearing a bright red track jacket like the ones in Royal Tenenbaums. He straddled a bicycle. He said “HELLO.” He startled me. I quickly looked up from my thoughts and my feet and said “Hi! How are you?” A pause. “How-” “What?” “How ARE you?” “WHAT?” Both ‘whats’ were delivered in an unsettlingly monotone, baritone pitch, and his face did not seem to change. His dark but glittery eyes were boring right through me. His mouth was set in a firm, flat line. I started to laugh, when he interrupted me to say (in that same strangely deep, strangely flat voice),

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frengee! March 24, 2010

Readers from home deserve an update and both before and after shots. I now have a “frenzied” haircut, thanks to my efforts to ‘hair model’ for Toni & Guy in Ulsan. I wouldn’t call it real hair modeling, as I think the purpose of my cut was more for the stylist to 1. practice and 2. update his portfolio. They gave me five uber-short choices, and mine is from the salon’s “Interactive Collection 2009“. 

I had finally grown my hair out from a horribly mom-ish cut I had done senior year of college. It was way over 10 inches-long enough to donate! I’ve been longing to get a body wave or something for forever, and the length was also finally appropriate for some really good braids and buns and all manners of other unstylish ’dos that I like to…do. But it was hot. And heavy. And tangly. And I never bothered styling it. It was all I could do to blowdry the mess. It took forever to wash, and it took loads of products to maintain. 

Good riddance. 

with flower hair tie

Just two days before the chop, my long ponytail in a typical cutsie Korean hair accessory.

Photos courtesy John, via my camera. 

hair up in a blob

How I usually wore my hair, and how most of my students/coworkers saw me. T minus one hour before the chop.

Can you tell I’m excited? In the two weeks leading up to the appointment (from the time of consultation), I had moments of doubt and despair. But every time, I realized that this was only sentimentality talking, and that I COULDN’T WAIT to feel the breeze on my neck. I think the last time my hair was even close to this short was in 1994, when I was still wearing timberlands with sundresses and playing with pogs

pouting like the model

And here I am, with my new "frenzied" cut, pouting with the fashion model who bears the same hairstyle. The stylists wanted to dye my hair like hers, and also to shave the nape of my neck, but I had to draw the line at a radically short cut.

The experience was great. All the stylists wear funky clothes and fun cuts, which reminded me of Bang back in DC. The girl with the best English had long, curled, dyed hair, and faux eyelashes. The manager with slightly more broken English had a severe blunt cut, lensless horn-rimmed glasses, and wore a spandex minidress and suspenders in bright colors. All of the stylists wore platforms or shape-ups. They serve coffee in English teacups and I drank water from a large crystal goblet. 필립 (“PILL-up” aka Phillip) knew enough English to pose in the mirror and say “I’m sorry!” as he grinned and began hacking at my inch-plus-thick ponytail. He was a spiky-haired cutie in a purple cardigan and gray skinny jeans. After the initial hack and a relaxing shampoo, he spent at least an hour shaping, or should I say: whittling, my hair down to its present thinness (pausing once more to smile and apologize). To aid in the styling stages, he used a spray mousse and a sea salt spray that I LOVED. I smelled like the beach. Suspender lady kept coming over to play with my hair and encourage me with assurances of “FRENZY! you know, FRENZY!” Except it sounded more like “frengee” when spoken in her Korean accent. 

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because you can’t stop me. March 19, 2010

things i can’t stop revisiting: the fantastic atlantic, and thank you for your attempts to put an end to the 50s.

 

Death of a Quarter Century

Now that I’m sort of alive again, I must report that I am also a quarter-century-dead. 

Unfortunate, I know, but it feels like a much nicer, squarer number than 24. It’s sharp, it’s bright, it’s grassy. There’s no fun in a number that isn’t a landmark. 

Also, I’m hoping that my own personal quarter life crisis is at last coming to an end. Goodbye, fears and regrets. Hello…? NY? LA? Time will soon tell. 

As it happened: For my birthday, John organized a photo scavenger hunt. We met up with about 15 other people downtown at 2:30 pm. 

For the record, at this time on Saturday I was not yet 25. I was born (I believe) around 15:30 in Aurora, CO. That meant I wouldn’t turn until roughly 8:00 on the 14th here. I think. Saturday I confused myself and was thinking 19:30 on Saturday. ydlsxeai si ahdr. 

Anyway it was a fairly warm, clear day (Wednesday had brought us a freak snowstorm which rendered my students wild slush monsters) so we were all excited to run around in the good weather. John handed out the targets before going over the rules (big no-no teach-ah!) and we were off.

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A Day in the Life March 16, 2010

I want to let you all in on a typical day in the life of Dani Teacher.

About an hour ago, as I was downloading pics of (English-speaking countries’) flags to adorn my classroom, I got a phone call. It was Pak Ki-yoel, the dude in the copy room. “Dani. Copy Room. Comman.” Roughly translated: “Dani, please come to the copy room. I have something to show you.”

At this point, I usually whine ”Pak, I’m busy. Ten minutes. Ship bun.” I am quite over dropping everything and running when he calls. But this time, I simply said “OK.” I finished downloading about ten flags, and signed out of gmail. I took my time walking down the hall, across the concrete quad (if you can call it that), and down to the first floor.

I slid open the copy room door to find Ki-yoel and one of the admin staffers squatted on the ground. In front of them lay a giant pink government-issued trash bag, flat and unopened. on it lay the biggest pile of seaweed I’d ever seen. The big pale green kind with the long, flat, alternating leaves. To its left, a smaller pile of the kind of seaweed that looks more like a large-leafed moss. Tiny little mats of bushy seaweed with tiny little leaves. Also involved in the sea-drenched mess were a large number of mini sea urchins, and a big blob of what looked to be a spotted black placenta.

They were sorting.

On Pak’s table was a puddle of sea, another black placenta, and a tiny stow-away shrimp the size of a child’s fingernail. It was wriggling around in the puddle, trying to stay submerged. A pot was boiling on a portable stove, and Pak was excited. “Dani, lunchtime, sea, chop!” Pak had gone down to the beach and harvested seaweed. Because that’s what he does.

“Pak, what IS that?” I said, pointing to the spotted blob. “Ahhh, delicious!” said he. Of course. “But WHAT?” “Goon-soo” he says. All right. Let’s look it up later.

An hour and lots of Naver-searching later, the admin office, principal, and I discover that “Goon-soo” is really “Goon-so”. This makes more sense, as “Goon-soo” had been translated as various military terms. “Goon-so”, on the other hand, turned out to be a “Sea Hare”. Now, I had tried ‘sea slug’, ‘sea cucumber’, ‘jellyfish’, and a number of other weird, blobby-looking creatures on them…and they had assured me that this placenta was neither a placenta nor any of these things. I assured them I hadn’t the faintest clue as to what a ‘sea hare’ was. The fact that it had the name ‘hare’ in it completely confused me. As a child, I prided myself in my knowledge of the animal kingdom. Since coming to Korea, I’ve been put in my place. I’ve realized how little I know about the edible marine animal world, let alone any of the creatures humans rarely come in contact with.

Turns out, a ‘sea hare’ is actually a type of ‘sea slug’. So I had been kinda right all along. ‘Sea slug’ had been my first guess. But since I didn’t know for sure…couldn’t recognize it on the spot (well, at least not a dead one laying on a person’s desk…weird), and since I had never heard of this specific type, let’s say I’ve been humbled.

They rinsed the fresh seaweeds, they chopped the fresh sea urchins in halves, and they boiled the sea hares. We dipped the different seaweeds in gochujang, this red chili paste that borders on thick ketchup that they like to dip all their hway (raw fish) in. We sucked the insides outta the urchins. The sliced the slugs up and we dipped those in gochujang, too.

My opinions? Fresh seaweed is way awesomer than store-bought. Tho I still may prefer the dried, salted kind that comes in delicately thin sheets. Fresh, it’s crunchy and bright and delicious. Sea urchins really are gross. I would like to try them at a fancy restaurant, and I would also like to try one of the big hand-sized ones. But these little guys tasted like a concoction of sand, rock salt, earth, and maybe a bit of shellfish (actual meat). I felt like I’d just sucked up a bunch of wet sand, and only had a slightly pleasant experience because of the strong salty aftertaste. So I’ll skip the little guys next time. The sea hare was good, but a little overcooked. Kinda chewy, but tastes like chicken.

So now I know why dudes puked after they ate sea urchin on Lost.

I took pics with my phone–not sure if I can upload them or not. Will try to figure it out. In the meantime, enjoy these photos I found on the web. They’re similar to what I had (fresh out of the Hyundai dumping bay–mm!).

ours were a little darker…but otherwise, same-same.

ours didn’t have as many spots, and were a little more iridescent-looking. kinda pretty, actually. I’m sure they also had three eyes.

and of course, since it wasn’t moving, I couldn’t see a head or antennae. it literally just looked like a blob of sea poop.

There are some other random things you should know about my daily life here. For instance, I’ve been meaning to let you all know that every time you hear the song “On Broadway“, you should think of me. Imagine the seven notes leading up to the three to which ‘on broadway’ is sung. You know, the notes that go with “they say the neon lights are bright…” Well, the first four sound out loud and clear every time I open my apartment door. That’s my door’s keypad ringtone. Not because keypads have ringtones, but because keypads have tones like phone pads do, and the combination of tones that my keypad sounds when the door is locking or unlocking just happens to be those four notes. I don’t know if this makes sense to you, but if it does, God bless you.

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Explained March 10, 2010

“Last Post Explained” or,

“Here Are Lots of Pictures” or, in any case,

“Parti di’Un Viaggio: Bangkok”.

Picture from the hallway of the Bangkok Airport

Suvarnabhumi Airport is quite pretty-looks like Lotuses-and seems to want to say "Welcome to Paradise"...

Okay, so I didn’t know what to expect from Thailand, other than everyone I knew who had gone had loved it. And let me also preface by saying that living in a place and visiting a place are two very different experiences. Keep in mind that I have been trying my best to be as respectful of Korean culture as possible for the six months leading up to our trip when I was suddenly dropped into a major city where I didn’t even know how to say “thank you” in the local language.  

We started out

by searching for and failing to find a proper Lunar New Year celebration. We did, however, find Chinatown, and had ourselves a lovely street meal of giant prawns, grilled fish, and other delights. And thanks to Andrew and his proficiency in Mandarin, our server seemed to like us. I believe John and Andrew were also wearing bow ties, which may have affected any of the above events.  

The boys wear bowties together for the first time

The boys in bowties in Bangkok...John, coincidentally, is also a rockstar now.

We discovered that Andrew had a connection in Pattaya, the infamous epicenter of Thai sex tourism. John and I had never heard of it, let alone thought of visiting it, but plans to make a detour soon evolved (When would we again have the chance to be escorted around Pattaya by an expat in-the-know?). Before high-tailing it out of Bangkok, we got drinks at Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Vertigo is a restaurant on top of a skyscraper and is quite breathtaking. My experience was a little soured by having to borrow weird clogs from the Maitre d’, but the view was spactacular and the air was cool and refreshing. Here are a few pics I found online:  

  

I totally tripped up those cliff-hanging stairs in those damned clogs. Why exactly did I opt not to bring the tiny black dress and heels?  

We also rode up and down Chao Phraya, the river running through Bangkok. I’m not sure how to pronounce that–don’t ask me about the Romanization of the Thai language–I think it is said CHOW PREE-yah. Or CHOW PRI-yah. But Thai is also tonal, so I’m not sure about the tones one should use. Anyway, Bangkok is (or was) the Venice of Asia, and I could have spent a lot more time exploring the canals. We only had time to run up and down the river on a cheap river taxi, talking and observing the different wats (temples).  

Playing Chess at a Temple

Chess on a Wat.

We got out at a sort of secluded temple and the boys played chess in the yard.  

 
 
Back of a water taxi

I could get used to getting around by boat.

 Next in a series: Chiang Mai.

 

‘Tis a Pity She’s a Whore March 6, 2010

If Korea is a wounded country who refuses to let anyone into her heart, Thailand is a proud land who whores herself out to anyone–at the right price.

I only have experience with three  (okay four) Asian countries at this point, and of Thailand I have merely a tourist’s knowledge. But I will try my best to explain my impressions of the three based on my limited knowledge.

Korea has been invaded, raped, pillaged, and colonized for about as long as she can remember. She clings to her alphabet for lack of any other uniquely Korean cultural trait. Of the rest of her attributes, she can’t quite tell what is Japanese, what is Chinese, and what is her own. She knows she can thank the U.S. for her greed to consume. She grasps for straws of her identity and licks her wounds, and teaches herself not to be fooled again. She won’t take another lover if it kills her…even if it means keeping out a Canadian born of Korean parents who has done his best to establish a life here. He can never be a part of her, no matter how hard he tries.

Thailand boasts that she was never colonized by a European power. For this reason, her culture is relatively well-preserved. Everywhere you go in Thailand, you can find shrines in people’s homes and businesses, cave temples, giant Buddhas, and great cuisine. Nobody here is crying over Japan’s or Spain’s burning of her books and temples. She did, however, lose pieces of herself to the French and British colonists, a side effect of the position she took as buffer state between their territories. Later, during the second WW, she allowed Japan free access to her lands, rather than suffer his wrath…only to emerge at the end of the war allied with the U.S. It seems that the great Kingdom of Thai is quite the opportunist, or at best, a fair-weather friend. From my entry into old Siam until my moment of departure, I felt that the land of smiles was really more of a land of bared teeth. Teeth bared in frustration, teeth bared at expatriates, teeth bared at tourists, at developers, at each other, at the sky.

India, a nation I romanticize to a fault and who has plenty of her own problems, seems to strike some happier balance in the world. She was colonized, but not destroyed. Her people seem to have been made stronger for the test, and they fiercely hold onto their culture and thrust it forth ahead of them into the future. They are ambitious: they are working quickly to achieve world-power status and India makes her mark in industries as widely varied as engineering and the arts. Yet she is open and indulgent. She wants to let you in, to make friends. She’ll make you feel you are her best friend, and 90% of the time, you will be. Where Thailand lacks in industry, Korea lacks in culture and congeniality. India seems to lack nothing.

Let me explain.

I didn’t know what to expect. I’d never planned to go to Thailand: we went because John’s dad generously gifted us with a week at a fabulous Phuket resort. Once we had decided to go to Thailand for our vacation, I had zero time to do a bit of research via tour guides or the internet. And we made the mistake of downloading LP to John’s kindle—BIG mistake. We love our kindles, but a word of advice: don’t try to use one for reference books. It’s a premiumly silly idea.

To Be Continued…

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